Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Campos do Jordão, June 24-28, 2009





This trip to Campos was “Legal demais” – TOO COOL. I want to give you a play by play as to not miss any of the trips highlights…

Wednesday (Quarta Feira) June 24th, 2009

My ride arrived around 4pm - Nick and his wife Patricia – I had met Nick before in the states (he actually attended my farewell party) but this was my first encounter with his beautiful wife Patricia (Patti) . . . Honestly, I could spend the next four paragraphs singing these guys’ praise since they are almost too fabulous to put into words, however I will try to describe them using just a few. Nick: fun, honest, genuine, intelligent. Patti: beautiful, fierce, loving and imaginative. I have a feeling I’ll be friends with these two for life. Upon entering the car I was greeted by their two filhos (kids) “Toddy” a chocolate brown lab and “Chimbau” a 10-month-old giant and beautiful golden retriever. As I quickly came to discover, Toddy and Chimbau have personalities as well as voices (provided mostly by Patti) – So there we are driving, laughing, listening to music, and every time a car passes by Toddy’s “voice” yells out “Oi, Cara, Grande Balada” which means “Hey, Dude, Party On” – It’s entirely too hilarious to put into words, I can only say that the ride there was one of the highlights of the trip. Furthermore I am officially “Tia Tiffany” (Aunt Tiffany) to these two babies and I of course happily reciprocate by calling them my “Sobrinos” (nephews)


When we entered the town of Campos do Jordão, Patti explained that at one point many years ago Campos was a place of refuge and recovery for those suffering from tuberculosis, it has since morphed into an extremely popular tourist destination, mostly for wealthy Brazilians from all over the country.

I don’t know how to give you a visual other than to say that this town is like Amsterdam, meets the Swiss Alps, meets Rodeo Drive. I instantly forgot we were in Brazil.

We passed through the town and headed up the mountain. The houses, hotels and pousadas (inns) on the drive up the mountain are impressive. I even saw one estate with a private landing pad complete with helicopter… umm. What? About 15 minutes up the road, Nick shouted “chegamos” (we made it!) We pulled up to a dauntingly huge rod iron-gate sandwiched by two regal looking white lion statues. “you’ve got to be kidding me” I thought to myself.

I think for some reason I was expecting some type of cabin, however to call this place a cabin or a house for that matter would be an OBSCENE understatement. “Estate” is a better word, “small-city”… better yet. I couldn’t believe how beautiful it was. There are seven bedrooms, various salons, living rooms, a library and even a house below the house where the caretaker and his family live. The décor, lovingly hand picked over the years by Nick’s mother (who owns the estate) was a plethora of artifacts and nick naks from all over the world. The chandeliers, the architecture, the staircase… ahhh. I was happy to call this place home for the next few days ☺

We dropped off our things and headed back down into town. Campos is known for having a local brewery called Baden Baden… that night I may have tasted the best beer of my life at this German pub/restaurant/brewery. It’s called “golden” – it’s a light beer with a hint of cinnamon. Seriously good.




It was less packed that usual – being that it was raining and a Wednesday so we took advantage and walked the streets a bit. This little town … It’s FABULOUS. The chocolate to clothing store ratio is like 15:1. I’m not kidding, the hot chocolate is so thick you have to drink it with a spoon. It’s like divine chocolate soup.

We were fed and tired so we headed back up to the “house” and snuggled in to bed. I laid awake thinking about how lucky I was. So grateful.

Thursday (Quinta-Feira) June 25th, 2009

We headed into town early today and spent time checking out the stores – Patti and I had a blast trying on various hats and sunglasses. I swear we get along so well we could be sisters. Nick’s team was playing so we ducked into one of the pubs and watched the game (soccer of course) while enjoying a few beers and some deep fried cheese.





(Side note. My diet this entire four days consisted almost entirely of bread, cheese and chocolate. My lactose and gluten intolerant sister would have died. I, however, was in heaven, and I kept telling myself that I was on vacation and I would have all the time in the world to Tango dance it off once I get settled in Buenos Aires, right?)

Ahem… anyways – during this little snack, Nick took a serious tone and looked me in the eyes and told me that he wants me to know that he and Patti are so happy to have met me and that they truly want me to be successful. He went on to say that whatever I needed they would help accommodate. If for some reason I decide to come back to Brazil, I will always have a home with them and if I need help finding a job or anything of the sort, I will never need to worry. Overall – he just wanted to relay to me this overwhelming sense he had that everything was going to work out for me somehow. I, of course, started to blubber like a little kid saying “obrigada, muito obrigada.” Of course those were the exact words I needed to hear at that moment.

On the way back up to the house – it began storming a bit, appropriate since at that very moment a voice came crackling over the radio that the king of pop, Michael Jackson had died. We pulled the car to the side of the rode on this pitch-black mountain terrain and the three of us sat there in silence not believing the news. I was a bit emotional actually as I think it was even more powerful for me to be in another country and to see the magnitude of how this one person’s legacy has effected to many all over the world.

We ate fondue that night… cheese and bread, chocolate, strawberries and bananas … then we spent the rest of the evening curled up on the couch with the pups watching the news and various Michael Jackson tributes.


Friday (Sexta-Feira) June 26th, 2009

Today I rode the “Teleférico” – it’s like a ski lift that takes you from the bottom of town up the mountain where there is a view of the entire landscape. It was so peaceful on the ride up – quiet and tranquil. I was swinging my legs and arms like a little kid (see photos) and Patti rode in front of me on the way up and behind me on the way back down to take photos. The view from the top was stunning and really displayed the splendor of this little town. Patti and I had this wonderful conversation about life and spirituality, then we decided to head back down where Nick was waiting (he's not a big fan of heights :)


After our Teleférico ride we drove up the mountain to the Governor’s Palace. We paid the entrance fee then headed into this monstrously beautiful estate. Inside we were greeted by the cutest little “Fofa” ever (that means Sweetheart). She must have been 90 years old, she had lipstick on her teeth and she was a walking history book when it came to the contents of this palace. There were chandeliers and relics from Italy, Russia, Germany, Peru, and more… Futhermore, the MASPE (museo de arte São Paulo) had loaned some of its finest works to the Palace for a special engagement (lucky me). We were guided through the house upstairs and down by our little Fofa and when it came to the end of our tour, Patti almost took our guide home with us in her pocket she was so smitten. It was pretty cute.




Dinner time arrived and Rodrigo and Erica showed up (dear friends of Patti and Nick and one of the other couples that would be joining us for the weekend) We all immediately took to each other and since my Portuguese has come along quickly and Nick and Patti had spent the past two days “prepping me” with inside jokes and cultural knowledge, Rodrigo and Erica were floored by how “Brazilian” I was. After dinner we all headed into the living room for concert time… Another couple of friends showed up and I spent the next hour or so performing music for everyone. Patti was so hilarious, since she had already heard many of the songs a couple of times by then – she was calling out requests, singing along, etc… Rodrigo is convinced that I could easily book a tour out here in Brazil and he has taken it upon himself to act as my “manager” and book me a tour throughout various cities here in Brazil. I promised him that if we could get the dates and locations together that I would happily fly back from Argentina and stay with Patti and Nick while I’m on tour… that would be fun ☺


More music, laughter and wine… then bedtime.

Saturday (Sabado) June 27th, 2009

This morning after a HUGE café de manha, Patti, Nick and I went out for a ride on QUADRIS (quads)… umm… for those of you who know me, I’m not the most “extreme-sport outdoorsy type” so me riding a manual quad in the middle of the brazilian mountainside is a hilarious thought. However, it was really really successfully fun.


After we cleaned up we headed to this big auditorium to see a conservatory-type musical performance. It was a band called Passoca that played classic brazilian "chorinho" music. I would compare it to our music of the 1930's and 40's - however the brazilian version includes rocking samba beats, complicated bossa chords and always moving poetry. It was really really fun.






We returned to the house, had a huge dinner and the group began to talk about friends and pastimes that I just couldn’t contribute anything to, so I quietly took three squares of dark chocolate and my glass of red wine and headed to another room… After a half an hour or so Patti showed up and we ended up sitting in that room talking until 4am in the morning. This only confirmed that fact that I ADORE this woman, plus she’s come out on the other side of some of the heartbreak I’ve recently experienced, so it’s always nice to hear those stories.

Sunday (Domingo) June 28th, 2009

Today we woke up late, ate a huge breakfast and then drove to this beautiful park where we went for a long hike up to a waterfall… I went for a little jog and arrived at the waterfall about 15 minutes before the rest of the group. I carefully jumped rock to rock to get out to this one big rock in the middle of river and then I sat there and closed my eyes, meditating on just how amazing this trip has been so far. Pondering of the circumstances that have aligned to provide me with so many good people, places and situations, I was once again struck by an overwhelming sense of gratitude for it all. We had a big lunch and left Campos around 6:30pm… “Chau Casa” Nick and I yelled as we rode down the driveway. It was close to 10 by the time we arrived back at the condo, and I was sad to say goodbye to Patti and Nick, however, they have invited me to spend my last week in Brazil at their house so I am going to be seeing them soon. Now it’s time to prepare for RIO DE JANEIRO and BAHIA!

(I'm actually posting this after the fact while i'm here in Rio - my computer's about to die and I don't have a converter with me to charge it in these foreign sockets... more photos and videos to come from Campos:)

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

São Paulo, June 23th, 2009




I like São Paulo.

Today I went to this cultural fair put on by the local gay radio station - it was held in an old old old mansion (see photos - grimy and RAD) At one booth (sandwiched between the HIV testing table and a t-shirt stand where a flaming Brazilian was singing loudly "Do you believe in life after love") I bought . . . a new black cardigan made by a local designer, and a necklace made out of buttons (by the São Paulo mother's club)... then I paid $20 Reais for a killer chair massage from the cutest little cross-eyed Asian-Brazilian man.

After leaving the fair I passed by a street artist making these impressive sculptures out of wire...come to find out he is Colombian (Hallelujah) so we started blabbing away in Spanish and I bought a wire sculpture of a guitar upon which he added my name - too cool.


I have this habit when I'm traveling or living in other countries of going to the same cafe/bar/restaurant/bookstore again and again. I'm pretty sure this repeat-visit-addiction is due to the fact that it makes me feel like a "local" - like I actually know where I'm going and what I'm doing. I went back to the cafe today where I had my ridiculously sweet mocha yesterday and I was so excited when the girl behind the counter called out my name when my hot chocolate was ready I almost fell out of my chair. Granted she called me "Tiana" but I was so thrilled that she somewhat remembered me that I shot up like I had just won bingo and said (a little too loudly) "Eu sou, aqui!!!" - (That's me, over here!!!)

It was pretty much hilarious.



Anyhoo, I'd love to tell you that everything is divine and perfect and I'm partying like a rockstar... but in all honesty, I was feeling a little sad today. Since my day at the beach I haven't done much of anything... Even on my birthday - I spent most of the day alone. It's kind of hard to navigate in São Paulo by yourself and it can be dangerous - plus it's quite a bus ride from where I'm staying and since I don't really have any friends here - I have found myself staying in the condo quite a bit. Staying in = overthinking and overthinking leads to thoughts like "What is my place in the world? Where do I belong? Will I ever be satisfied going back to live in the US? How am I going to make a living with my music? Who am I?". . . and so forth. Don't get me wrong I am SOOO lucky to be staying with this family and to be safe and cared for, It's just that my thoughts were getting to me and after what a mess it has been to plan my upcoming trip - I was feeling like a bit of a burden :(

Here is the conclusion I have come to - It is easy to be inline with your "Paz interior" when NOTHING IS GOING WRONG... however ... it is much more difficult to stay calm when things just don't seem to be going so smoothly. Today was a test - THIS IS ONLY A TEST - So that I could practice remaining calm in the face of adversity. I spent most of the day today trying to secure my flights for my trips to Rio and Bahia, it was nothing short of a disaster. I became so frustrated trying to navigate through the details in my third language and I began to feel like a total burden on this family I'm staying with. I felt my eyes starting to well up and my chest was constricting. I just wanted to run out of the house and never come back. I took a shower instead. Finally Rose offered to buy the three one way tickets on her CC and I would pay her back in cash - and by the afternoon my trip was finally secured. I bought three one way tickets (I've been doing this one-way thing a lot lately)

June 29th - São Paulo --> Rio de Janeiro
July 2nd - Rio de Janeiro --> Salvador (Bahia)
July 6th - Salvador --> São Paulo

I am excited to be able to see the light at the end of the tunnel and the fact that I will be traveling for the next couple of weeks.

Tomorrow night I'm leaving with some new friends for their mountain house in Campos de Jordão. I am really really really excited that I am going to be spending four days lounging, cooking, playing music, drinking, hiking, and taking in the sights in Campos... I have a feeling it is going to be just what I need to clear my head. The morning after I get back I have an early flight to Rio de Janeiro... I can't believe I'm actually going to visit Corcovado - when I've only ever sang of it's beauty :) hee hee.

So about that TEST today... I didn't pass with flying colors ... but that's ok, I have a feeling that life will give me plenty more opportunities to take the test again, and again, and again. That's just the way it works. Unfortunately ... and Fortunately :)

Monday, June 22, 2009

Feliz Aniversário. June 22nd, 2009

Why did my birthday have to fall on a Segunda-feira (Monday)?

Oh well...I must not stay in the house, I must go downtown for at least a couple of hours! When in Brazil - as they say - or don't say... um, anyways...

I got a ride to downtown where I went exploring for a while before I had to catch the 8pm bus back to suburbiaville (Alphaville)

Downtown São Paulo has some RITZY areas. I mean, seriously. WOW. The window displays are insane, the architecture, the brand names: Ed Hardy, Guess, Volcom - and a plethora of insanely priced boutiques that I don't dare enter for fear that just setting foot inside them will strip me of all my riches and leave me a penniless beggar on the streets of São Paulo. That being said... It's really fun to window shop.

So, I stopped in this RAD bookstore - yes, I am a nerd - I LOVE bookstores in other countries. I bought one of Paulo Coelho's bestsellers "O Diário de um mago" - the story of Coelho's journey to the sacred medieval city of Santiago de Compostela. Coelho is one of my favorite authors (I highly recommend "eleven minutes") and it just so happens he is Brazilian, so I bought the book in it's original language along with a pocket-size Ingles-Portuguese dictionary - HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO MEEEEE :)

On my way back to the bus stop - I stopped in a posh little cafe to check my email (on my ipod touch - thank you Apple) I got an email that made me cry in a good way, so I sat there on my 27th birthday all alone very very far away from "home" crying into my ridiculously sweet Mocha. It was a very happy moment for me.

As much as I would have liked to "Party Brazilian-Style" on my birthday... I really am content to just be here at my little home-base writing to you all on my Blog. I have some exciting things coming up... I am spending Thursday-Sunday at a Mountain House in "Campos de Jordão" with a group of soon-to-be friends, music, festa, and food will be had by all.

The day after I get back - I'm going to hope on a plane to Rio de Janeiro and spend a couple of days being a tourist (I am dying to visit Corcovado and see the "Reedemer" statue that overlooks the bay) Then on Thursday i'm going to hop on another flight to Bahia and spend four fabulous days there - which is a major dream of mine.

So... Até mais. Thank you all for your loving birthday wishes - this is going to be a great year indeed.

Love,
TJ

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Praia. June 20-21th, 2009







I am a happy monkey.

Saturday morning I got a phone call from "Pee-tah" who said that he was too wasted to leave early with the family for the beach house and that they would come get me in a couple of hours. Fine with me... I was wrecked after getting home at 5:30 and my taxi cab adventures. About noon Peter and Ricardo (son of the family who have the house on the beach - cute, smart, 18, feeling again like mrs. robinson) anywhooo. We took a taxi to the mall to wait for his girlfriend Giovanna (yes, totally cute italian-brazilian menina) she didn't show... we waited nearly three hours. Anyways. After we finally got a hold of her, we took the metro to another town where she picked us up and we headed to the beach.

Driving to the beach, we must have passed through four different eco-zones. It was quite amazing. First you had the city - houses, windy streets, graffiti. Then we hit what I can only describe as the JUNGLE. Beautiful lush, green foliage, waterfalls creeping down the mountainside - and many, many - Favelas. Brick/stone/plywood residences for who I can only assume are the very poor. Outside these favelas hung hundreds of beautiful multicolored lines of clothing... like a sad festival really. It was quite a sight - but this little 21 year old menina drove like a bat out of hell and I was crammed in the back of her hatchback next to a life-size stuffed Eeyore and a snoring "Pee-Tah."

After the Jungle came the flat marsh-land covered with an eerie mist that seemed to curtail the back of the car as we drove. Once we made it through the abyss... I finally saw the light... Literally... The sun lit the coast like a beacon in the night and the rows of buildings looked like dominoes all lined up along the water. It was stunning - "é la onde vamos" - "that's where we are headed" they said to me.

Happy happy joy joy.

When we FINALLY made it to the apartment the sun was setting, which made for a quite a view from the Veranda. There was shrimp and salmon on the grill... bossa nova flowing from the tv speakers and really good company. I couldn't believe my luck. As you may note from the pictures, this was a really nice place, with really nice people.




For the next few hours we ate, sang, talked about life and I helped to translate for Peter's parents who were visiting from Ukiah. Think mullets and Hawaiian tees.




After dinner - all the folks headed to bed and the "kids" headed down for a walk on the beach. This was like being in high school again. They taught me all the bad words in Portuguese, we played on the beach, took shots of tequila by the pool and smoked hooka in the outdoor lounge. Hilarious. It was actually pretty great being almost ten years older than these kids. I felt somehow like I had endured so many battles that they had yet to experience and come out on the other side stronger. My "paz interior" was flowing.

I didn't sleep that night since Ricardo asked if I would sleep in the "boys" room with Peter - so he could sleep in the "girls" room with his lady. How can I say no to that little BONITINHO. So, I said yes and once I entered the room where Peter was snoring and hacking up a bronchitic lung, I though to myself... bad move Tiff, bad move.

I headed to the couch where I attempted to sleep however the light from the ocean and the sound of the waves lulled me into more of a creative meditative state. I may have gotten one or two hours of sleep... not enough. But it was all worth it.

Around 7 in the morning I went for a walk on the beach, warm air and coldish water - I couldn't believe THIS was winter in Brazil. Life's rough. People were out running, surfing, setting up shop for the day with carts of food and other good were being wheeled onto the beach. I saw tens of beautiful Sand Dollars lining the shore... I wanted to take one with me - but when I reached down to pick one up it crumbled in my hands, so I knew that I was meant to hold the memory in my head, and I kept walking.

After a fabulous breakfast we headed to the beach. It was beautiful, sunny, warm, and we drank fresh coconuts and soaked up the sun. Divine.



After sun-soakage, I went upstairs to shower and take a nap - then we headed back to the city for my birthday present - WE WENT TO SEE A MUSICAL!!! hooray :)

It was actually a theater school that puts on a season every year and I was impressed with the quality of the performance. It was called "lendas e tribus" (legends and tribes) - It was a HUGE cast - tons of African rhythms, dancing, song, comedy, lights, music... Great show. I'll try to put up a video later... but i'm not sure it came out.

Well, we finally returned home and ate Pizza to commemorate my birthday at midnight!

Good times, I'm pretty sure I will never forget ringing in my 27th year in Brazil.

Boa Noite :)